Written with the contributions of Murat Yankı.
The Vineyards of Ankara: More Than Just a Song
In the traditional sense, civilization doesn’t begin with settlement alone; settling merely leads to the formation of a community. The level of civilization in a society engaged in agriculture is determined by the product it cultivates. A society that grows wheat can still be nomadic, but a society that cultivates vines has become settled. Thus, vine culture is regarded as synonymous with civilization.
Ankara is a city synonymous with the Turkish Republic, which itself is a civilization project. It is no coincidence that this project took shape in a city known for its vineyards. The vineyards of Ankara, particularly those of Kalecik, one of the most important viticulture areas, have always been at the heart of the Republic.
Ankara is a city synonymous with the Turkish Republic, which itself is a civilization project. It is no coincidence that this project took shape in a city known for its vineyards. The vineyards of Ankara, particularly those of Kalecik, one of the most important viticulture areas, have always been at the heart of the Republic.
The Vineyards of Ankara and Kalecik in the Hatti and Hittite Periods
The viticulture culture in Ankara dates back to ancient times. Excavations from the Early Bronze Age around the city have revealed numerous drinking vessels dating back to the 3rd millennium BC. During this period, the Hatti culture dominated the region, making Ankara an important center for grape production and trade. Kalecik, especially, became wealthy due to its location along the banks of the Kızılırmak River, making it a hub for grape and salt trade.
During the Hittite period, Kalecik viticulture saw significant development. The Hittites were the first to use wine as a ritual drink, and wine became an essential part of their festivals. The Kalecik region made generous contributions to this wine culture. One of the most impressive artifacts left by the Hittites is the Inandik Vase. Dating back to the 16th century BC, this vase highlights Kalecik’s role in wine production and is currently on display at the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara.
The vineyards of Ankara and Kalecik were central to this culture during the Hittite era and have carried this legacy through to the present day.
The vineyards of Ankara and Kalecik were central to this culture during the Hittite era and have carried this legacy through to the present day.
The Inandik Vase and Ankara After the Hittites
When the Hittite state collapsed around 1200 BC, the region entered a period of stagnation that lasted for about 300 years. During this time, cities shrank, turning into villages and towns. Wine vessels became smaller and lost their aesthetic value, as there was no longer a market for wine trade. The people began to produce wine for their own consumption.
By around 800 BC, the Phrygians appeared to the west of Ankara. They established a civilization between the Sakarya and Kızılırmak rivers in Anatolia, and Kalecik came under their control during this period.
The Phrygians and Galatians
The Phrygians left significant traces regarding wine culture. From the vessels found in the Gordion Tumulus near Polatlı, it is understood that the Phrygians drank sweet wine. It is believed that the wines produced in Kalecik during this period were also sweet. Kalebağ wine, produced during the Republican era, is almost a nod to the Phrygians.
A wine named after the Phrygian goddess Cybele, later called Sybellites (Sybil’s Wine), was also produced. Written sources indicate that this wine was made in the Kalecik and its surroundings.
The Galatians and Kalecik
Centuries later, in 278 BC, a people known as the Galatians, originating from Central Europe, settled in the areas around Ankara, Yozgat, and Çankırı. The Galatians are considered the ancestors of many European nations and remained in the region for over a hundred years. Their reason for choosing this region was likely the richness in mining, salt, water, and wine production. The Galatians were heavily influenced culturally by the region and carried many elements of the Phrygian culture back to Europe. One of the most significant of these was the Phrygian Cap, which later became a symbol of the French Revolution.
The Ones Who Made Ankara “Angora”: The Roman Empire Period
With Anatolia coming under the control of the Roman Empire in the 1st century BC, Ankara, then known as Ancyra, and Kalecik, known as Malos, gained importance. As a land-based empire, the Romans made good use of the knowledge left by the Hattili, who had established civilization in the area before them, and established a military and trade network centered in Ankara. Especially through Kalecik and Çankırı, they launched campaigns against the Kingdom of Pontus. This route also enabled Rome to reach the Black Sea and benefit from its resources. During this period, Kalecik served as a lodging base for the army, and wine was abundant there.
However, one wine stood out, perhaps as one of the most famous of its time. The renowned scholar and author of a natural history encyclopedia, Pliny, mentioned this wine in the 14th book of his 37-volume work. He describes the wine, produced in the Galatia region and a legacy of the Phrygians, saying that the wine called Sibelites always tasted fresh. Pliny wrote:
“[Wines that are sweeter have less aroma, while more delicate wines have more fragrance. There are four main colors of wine: white, yellow, red, and black. As for the wine made in Galatia, called Sibelites, it always tastes as fresh wine, just like the Halyntium wine of Sicily].”
The Vineyards and Winemaking of Ankara and Kalecik with the Rise of Christianity
Although Christianity emerged after Jesus Christ, Roman emperors saw the religion as a threat for a long time, and it took hundreds of years for Christianity to find a safe haven. During this process, many Christians lived in Ankara and Kalecik, and one of the significant figures of the religion, Saint Theodotus, sacrificed his life. Born in Ancyra (Ankara), Saint Theodotus was also a wine merchant. It is also said that he had a wine cellar in a church in Kalecik.
One of the most important witnesses to the winemaking activities in Kalecik is the press weights found near the ruins of an old church located 500 meters from the Kızılırmak River. These weights, adorned with crosses or depictions of grape clusters and vines, date back to the 4th or 5th centuries AD. These findings prove the existence of wine production in Kalecik during the Early Byzantine period.
Winemaking in Kalecik During the Turkish Rule
From the 14th century onwards, Turks and Armenians began to increase in the region. Armenians played an essential role in viticulture and winemaking. The Greeks and Armenians living in Kalecik made their living from this craft. The restrictions on alcohol production and consumption, introduced from the 16th century onwards, were not strongly felt in Kalecik, and the region’s viticulture continued to develop.
While trade in Ankara grew during the 15th century, the wool of the Angora goat became an essential commercial product. The trade route connecting Ankara to the Black Sea via Kalecik and Çankırı also benefited Kalecik’s vineyards and wines. Until the early 19th century, traders passing through this route continued to taste Kalecik wines.
The Development of Kalecik Winemaking Before and During the Republic
Two major turning points for Kalecik winemaking were the forced migration of Armenians and the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1923. These events led to the departure of a significant portion of the population involved in viticulture from the region.
However, in the early years of the Republic, a group of technicians, led by agricultural engineer Prof. Dr. Arif Akman, began efforts in 1927 to preserve and develop the Kalecik Karası grape. With the establishment of the Higher Agricultural Institute in Etlik, Ankara, in 1933, studies on the Kalecik Karası grape deepened further.
The establishment of a wine factory in Kalecik by Tekel in 1944 revived the region’s viticulture and winemaking. These developments attracted the attention of private wine companies and universities based in Ankara, sparking a renaissance in Kalecik winemaking.
In the 2000s, Kalecik’s viticulture entered a phase of professionalization. For the first time in history, Kalecik saw qualitative and quantitative development thanks to private sector entrepreneurs. During this process, other grape varieties from the historical heritage of the Kızılırmak basin were also used in wine production, and high-quality grapes grown in other regions of Turkey were adapted to Kalecik.
